Start from scratch (bundling cables is not a good idea on long cable runs, especially with unshielded cables).
Remove the camera and the ASIAIR from the OTA.
Run two separate short power cables (at least 18 AWG) from your power supply to the camera and to the ASIAIR. Do not power the camera from the ASIAIR.
Then use a short (much shorter than 1 meter) USB 3 cable between the camera and the ASIAIR's USB 3 port (the one with a blue plastic instead of a black plastic insert).
Don't connect anything else to the ASIAIR (except for the camera cable and the power cable) Don't connect anything else to the camera except of 12V from the power supply and the USB cable to the ASIAIR.
If you are using two separate 12 V power supplies, it is crucial that you run a short heavy gauge (at least 18AWG) wire in between the grounds of the two power supplies. Not doing so could harm the USB chips (since you run the risk of making the USB pins handle large ground returns).
Can you see the camera now? If so, you know what you need to do.
If not, replace the USB 3 cable by a USB 2 cable. Can you see the camera now? Try all four of ASIAIR's ports (both USB 3 port and USB 2 port).
If you can see the camera with USB 2 cable but not USB 3 cable, either the USB 3 port of the camera or the ASIAIR is the problem. Again, for diagnostics, make sure not to use a cable over 1/2 m or so. You can lengthen the cable later to see how long your particular ASIAIR can stand.
If you still cannot see the camera from ASIAIR, connect the camera to a desktop or laptop computer and use ASIstudio. If you can see the camera with ASIstudio but not ASIAIR (given all the short, direct cables that I have mentioned above), the ASIAIR is the problem. If you also don't see the camera on the desktop computer, you camera is bad.
Chen